Thursday 26 July 2012

spinach in containers.

How to grow spinach in containers.

Spinach, the nutritious leafy vegetable that most kids love to hate, is a popular food grown in small-space gardens such as balcony container gardens. This cool-weather crop grows well in containers and can provide great taste and healthy nutrients just 40 to 45 days after planting. It does well in shade and in cooler areas, it is easy to harvest, and it is a beautiful and rich deep green color. What more could a balcony gardener ask for from a vegetable.

How to plant: Plant spinach seed 1/2- inch deep and 2 to 4 inches apart; if you are planting in rows, put nine inches between them. Once they sprout, thin to the strongest plants and throw the culls into a salad or stir fry. However, if you prefer the Square Foot gardening method, you can grow nine plants in one square foot. You can also grow spinach in containers if you wish. Because the plant is shallow-rooted, you won’t need a deep pot. You can grow them in one of those long rectangular planters or window boxes very nicely. If you do grow in containers, you have to monitor water and heat more closely as containers dry out faster than soil and they heat up faster, too.
Water and feeding: Consistency is critical to a good crop of spinach. Keep the soil evenly moist. This is where having a timed drip irrigation system comes in very handy. Drip irrigation will also keep soil from splashing muddy water onto the leaves, thus reducing potential pathogen problems. Cleaner leaves means it’s easier to prep them before eating easier, too. Spinach isn’t a greedy feeder. Once a month during the growing season water this vegetable with compost tea, or simply side dress with aged compost about mid-season.
Maintenance: Vegetables perform better when you keep weeds out of the bed. If your spinach bed has weedy invaders, don’t pull them up; cut them to the soil level. Why? Spinach roots are shallow, and if you start yanking weeds from around your plants you could damage your crop’s roots.
Garden Pests: Your kids may not like spinach, but aphids sure do. Aphids are small soft-bodied pests that congregate in large numbers on the undersides of leaves and suck the life out of your plants, leaving behind distorted foliage and a sticky substance called honeydew, which can encourage the growth of sooty mold. Use insecticidal soap on these invaders or—better yet—bring in beneficial insects like ladybugs to do the killing for you. Not very ladylike, but someone’s got to do it.
Diseases: Spinach, like vehicles in the upper Midwest, is susceptible to rust. Keep the garden clean of debris. Remove and destroy diseased plants.
Harvest: You can begin harvesting spinach at any time, but generally the leaves are mature and ready for harvest 40 to 52 days after sowing. Cut, don’t pull or twist the leaves from the plant, or you could dislodge them from the soil. With garden shears of a very sharp knife, you can cut a spinach plant about 3 inches above the soil, and they will grow on for a second harvest. Wash spinach thoroughly to eliminate the grit that sometimes sticks to crinkled leaves.
Storing and preserving: Spinach will maintain good flavor and texture for up to a week in the refrigerator. You can freeze blanched spinach, can or even dry the leaves.
Using Spinach: Spinach can be eaten raw or cooked. Wash the leaves by soaking them in a large bowl of water to remove any dirt or grit that may be on the leaves; swish the leaves around in the bowl and the debris will sink to the bottom. If the spinach is particularly gritty you may need to dump the water and rise again. Use leaves whole or as a chiffonade. When adding to cooked dishes, do so late in the cooking process.

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